Step 2 Success

Problem Solving Case Study: Over-lightened Blonde

VOLUME 6

As a new colorist, you'll have color clients who have color problems. One of the most common is over-lightened blonde hair. Here's how to solve the problem and win a loyal new client, the best kind for career building!

What might have caused the over-lightened blonde?

  • Repeated highlighting services without adding lowlights (a “best color practice” is to add lowlights every third highlighting service).
  • Repeated applications of a light blonde color from roots to ends, versus a retouch application. (This is a frequent practice of at-home color users who continually “shampoo-in” color.)
  • A lightener application was processed for too long, eliminating all tone from the hair.

What should you do to correct over-lightened blonde?

Add color back into the hair. This is known as a “tint-back” or “color balancing” service, and can be quickly-and-easily accomplished with Clairol Professional Second Nature No-Lift Corrective Color.

Here's how to do it.

  • Determine the Level of the desired final result.
  • Create a Second Nature formula that is 1 to 2 Levels lighter than the Level of the desired result. Select shades that are Neutral or Warm-Based.
  • Add warmth to your formula to prevent off-tones or drabness in over-lightened blonde:
    • » When tinting-back to Levels 6 through 10, add ¼- to ½-ounce of Second Nature 141RO, Strawberry Blonde, depending on the amount of Gold currently in the hair.
    • » When tinting-back to Levels 1 through 5, add ¼- to ½-ounce of Second Nature 155R, Red, depending on the amount of Red to Red-Orange currently in the hair.
  • Apply in a retouch application method. Process 20-30 minutes.

Here's an example.

Goal : Your client wants to return to her Natural Level 4. She is now a Level 8 with some Gold left in the hair.

Formula : An ideal color selection would be: 1-1/2 oz. Second Nature 137N, plus ½ oz. 155R mixed with 2 oz. 20-volume Clairol Professional developer.

Processing : 20 to 30 minutes. However, always do a Strand Test first, to be sure of timing and final color result.