FAQ, Problems and Solutions

FAQ's - Color Formulation

FORMULATION WHEN NEW CLIENT FORMULA IS UNKNOWN

Your new client has 1/2-inch of regrowth, and the ends are faded. She has no idea what product or formula was used by her previous stylist.

In-depth client consultation and careful formulation are the keys to success. Here’s how:

  1. Thoroughly analyze the hair. Check for condition, porosity, percentage of gray (if any) and assessment of gray coverage.
  2. Ask key questions, focusing on desired results vs. what was previously achieved.
    1. Satisfaction with the current color. What does she like about the current color? Is there anything she would like to change?
    2. Commitment to maintenance. How often is she willing to return for touch-ups? Review the optimum "maintenance schedule":
      Permanent color and gray coverage: 4 weeks
      Long-lasting semi-permanent color and gray blending 4 to 6 weeks
      Highlighting 2 to 3 months
    3. Type of haircolor. Is she satisfied with the amount of gray coverage? Does she want to match, lighten or deepen the current color? (Use her answers to determine the type of haircolor you will use.)
  3. Show the client haircolor pictures or swatches to help you understand what she is looking for.
  4. Formulate color and apply. Explain to the client that the color will be close to her desired result, but that it may take a second retouch appointment to achieve the color you mutually agreed on.

CONVERT SHADES AND FORMULAS FROM ONE LINE TO ANOTHER

You recently switched haircolor lines. Now all your clients’ formulas need to be converted.

The most accurate method is to reformulate using the new haircolor line. If you rely solely on the "conversion chart," the results may not be comparable. All haircolor lines are not based on the same Level System. For example, a Level 3 may be a Dark, Medium or Light Brown, depending on the manufacturer and country of origin. Here’s how to fine-tune your consultation and formulation skills with the new color line:

  1. Use the manufacturer’s Natural Level swatch ring to determine the client’s natural Level (Level 1-Black to Level 10-Lightest Blonde). Compare the swatches to the regrowth area and always consider Contributing Pigment
  2. Next, determine the Level and tone of the current haircolor on the shaft and ends.
  3. Consult with your client. Is she satisfied with the current color? If not, this is a new opportunity to adjust the formula. Check the hair’s degree of porosity.
  4. Now consult the color chart or swatch book for the new color line. Use the recommended formulation based on your findings in Steps 1 to 3 above.
    Note: If you must formulate prior to your client’s appointment, use the descriptives (Medium Brown, for example), as well as tonality, rather than numerical Levels to formulate.
  5. Always do a strand test for accurate color results and timing.
  6. Make notes of the new formula and any adjustments needed as a result of the strand test.

FORMULATE TO SUBSTITUTE FOR A MISSING SHADE

How can you formulate to substitute a shade that you’re missing? A client is due shortly and you don’t have one of the shades in her custom formula.

You can be creative by mixing colors to create the desired shade. Use your color theory knowledge and the guidelines below:

  1. Consult the color chart or swatch book for the color line you are using.
  2. Determine the Level and tonal family (base) of the missing shade. Let’s use Miss Clairol 35G-Sunlit Brown as an example of the missing shade. Per the color chart, this shade is a Level 5-Lightest Brown, base Gold.
  3. Check the color chart for shades available one Level above (Level 6-Dark Brown) and one Level below (Level 4-Light Brown). On the chart, you see that two Level 6 shades are available (25G-Sunblonde Brown and 74G-Sunwashed Blonde).
    • However, there is no Level 4 shade available.
    • Checking further, you see that a Level 3-Medium Brown shade is available (39G-Sunset Brown).
  4. Now it’s time for creative formulation!
    • Select the Level 6 shade (either 25G or 74G) that is the closest tonal match to the desired result.
    • Formulate for a Level 5 shade by mixing 3 parts Level 6 to 1 part Level 3 (39G). Example: 1-1/2 oz. 25G or 74G, plus 1/2 oz. 39G
    • Add this new Level 5 shade in proportion to the other shades in your formula.
Alternate formulation examples for Miss Clairol:
  • To achieve a Level 4-Light Brown: 1 oz. Level 3-Medium Brown + 1 oz. Level 5-Lightest Brown.
  • To achieve a Level 6-Dark Blonde: 1-1/2 oz. Level 7-Medium Blonde + 1/2 oz. Level 4-Light Brown.

Note: When formulating to create substitute shades, you can go as far as two Levels above and two Levels below your target Level. For example, if you need a Level 6-Dark Blonde, you can use equal parts of a Level 8-Light Blonde and Level 4-Light Brown.

CREATE FUNKY BRIGHT COLORS

How to pre-lighten hair to the correct contributing pigment for trendy bright haircolors.
(Whatever happened to good ol’ blonde?)

To achieve the true bright colors today’s trends demand, hair must first be pre-lightened to create a new base (the contributing pigment) for the bright, vibrant color to be applied. Controlling the amount of pre-lightening, so that the correct contributing pigment is achieved, is the secret to the final bright results some clients want.

  • Pre-lighten hair. Use Complements Lightening Gel or BW Creme Lightener to lighten the hair to the correct degree of contributing pigment for the Complements Intensifier color to be used.
    • For Complements Intensifier True Red, lighten to contributing pigment Level 6 (gold-orange).
    • For Complements Intensifier Blue or Violet, lighten to contributing pigment Level 8 (yellow).
  • Rinse and lightly shampoo hair. Lightly cleanse after you have pre-lightened hair to the correct degree, but avoid rubbing the scalp.
  • Mix. Combine selected Complements Intensifier shade with any Clairol Professional 10-volume developer.
  • Apply. Evenly apply Complements Intensifier formula to pre-lightened hair.
  • Process. 15 minutes total. Rinse and condition hair.